Ed Okie writes that advice about dough mixing is near-universal: Do it 6
minutes, 8, 10, or more. Some suggest the "window pane" test for checking
"proper mix." Others use the descriptive phrase "until smooth as a baby's
bottom." The advice spins one unspoken theme: Do it this way or else the
world will end!
Bob sez: Well, Ed, I don't think the implication is that the world will
end if you don't do it "their way." Bread baking book authors write for a
variety of readers, not just one that lives in steamy Florida or in the
cool mountains of western North Carolina or in a village in Yorkshire. I
have never really gotten Peter Reinhart's "window pane" test to work
correctly for me, yet I do make damned good bread. Experience has taught me
when my dough is "just right." But an author can't write that, can he or
she? So, they give an estimate as starters knowing that a serious bread
baker will work out his or her own time period so they will know when it is
"just right."
Ed also writes: Equally confusing: the advice inevitably is wrapped around
words of "proper gluten development," "protein structure," etc. The jargon
is enough to keep even the enemy confused.
Bob adds: What's confusing about proper gluten development? Any serious
bread baker knows that development of the gluten will give the bread both
structure and flavor. And, if you are a new baker, you should be made
aware of these things. I don't know who "the enemy" is, but I think a
little information about the "science" of bread baking is helpful to both
new and experienced bakers.
My intention here is not have a debate, but rather to point out that all of
us are different. We have different kitchens, different techniques, and we
just might do something a little differently than the baker next door
or the one in another state or that bone-idle guy (Hi, John!) in
Yorkshire. Therefore, the author must write for all of us. As an example,
I think Peter Reinhart has the knack of doing just that.
As an example, I have tried your "cold oven start" three times now with
disastrous results, but just because it doesn't work for me doesn't mean
it's bad thing. It's just different, as we all are different.
My soapbox has just collapsed and my work here is done.
Bob the Tarheel Baker