Home Bread-Bakers v099.n032.8
[Advanced]

Rosemary's sours

Reggie Dwork <reggie@jeff-and-reggie.com>
Fri, 02 Jul 1999 14:53:24 -0700
v099.n032.8
Here are the first of Rosemary's recipes and info.

Are You Ready For Sourdough?
Light Rye Bread


                     *  Exported from  MasterCook  *

                       Are You Ready For Sourdough?

Recipe By     : Rosemary Grimm <bf940@lafn.org>
Serving Size  : 1    Preparation Time :0:00
Categories    : Breads                           Info/Tips
                Sourdoughs                       Bread Bakers Mailing List

  Amount  Measure       Ingredient -- Preparation Method
--------  ------------  --------------------------------
*****  NONE  *****

Are You Ready For Sourdough?

I really enjoy making sourdough breads. I haven't yet developed many
original recipes, but there are some further down the page. Here are also
some thoughts and some links to more information.

In my opinion, it is best to get your feet wet (or just your hands, I hope)
making non - sourdough breads using commercial yeast. When you have more
experience and a good feel for bread, then by all means try sourdoughs.
This may just be another way of saying, "Do what I did."

                        What is Sourdough?

You may be surprised to learn that sourdough bread may be made of whole
wheat or rye or other whole grains as well as white flour; the flavor may
be tangy or "sour" or so mild that you would hardly recognize it as
"sourdough." The commonality is in the traditional method of allowing the
grains' own yeast to develop slowly until there are enough yeast to power
the rise of the final dough. This longer fermentation results in improved
flavor and nutrition.

To purists sourdough bread is made using no commercial yeast. Others think
of sourdough as only a flavoring method and rely on commercial yeast for
the final rise. They do this for speed or convenience or because they are
following a recipe and don't know there is any other way. I think there is
room for both approaches.

                        What is a starter?

Almost everyone knows that sourdough bread begins with a "starter." There
is nothing mystical or magical about the starter; it is merely the vehicle
for holding and nurturing the non commercial yeast between baking sessions.
It contains yeast, friendly bacteria and the flour and water on which they
feed. I recommend that you begin by using a good commercial starter or one
from a friend. You will then know that the particular strain of yeast and
its companion bacteria are stable and good tasting. With more experience
you may want to try making your own starter from scratch. I have heard of
making these starters with raisins, grapes, cabbage or other vegetables.
Why not just use the yeast that nature provides us clinging to the grains
themselves?

                 It's Easier than You Might Think

You may think sourdough starters are temperamental and troublesome,
demanding special containers and regular attention. Not so. Ask yourself
how breadmaking survived through the millennia before Pasteur. Do you think
it was the arcane province of a select priesthood or the widespread
practice of common folks like us? Starters can last for years (even
centuries) with minimal care or concern on our part. I confess to
neglecting my starters for long periods without negative effects. I use tap
water in my starters though I have read that this is a fatal error. No one
told that to the starter though.

For years I had tunnel vision when it came to sourdough. I thought only of
making hearth breads with only flour, starter, water and salt. I am now
using sourdough in many kinds of bread, modifying old recipes; often the
only change is an adjustment in liquid to accommodate the wetness of my
starter, omission of the commercial yeast, and breaking the process into
different stages.

The basic process is to prepare the starter by feeding it and letting it
froth, then at the peak of activity, adding water and half the flour in a
bowl for what some call a sponge and others call a second starter, then
letting this sit until really bubbly (bubbles throughout the batter, not
just on top.) Finally the dough is made by adding the rest of the
ingredients and kneading, shaping and allowing the final rise before
baking. I may never buy yeast again.

                     The Busy People's Bread

It may take two days to make, but sourdough is more accommodating to work
schedules; your attention is required only briefly at long intervals.
Meanwhile, you are sleeping, at the job, in school, whatever.

                 General Characteristics and Tips

Generally sourdough breads have thin, crisp crusts without any special
measures on your part.

I have always stressed the importance of good kneading to adequately
develop the gluten in flour. Actually, there are also chemical ways to
develop gluten. I am told that big commercial bread makers rely on this to
make things easier. Sourdough naturally develops strong gluten without as
much kneading. So you will find it easier to achieve that perfectly springy
dough. And you can make very nice sourdough batter breads.

Because the gluten is so readily developed, I think it's a good idea to use
plain old (unbleached) all purpose flour in feeding your starters,
especially if you think you might want to make biscuits, pancakes, waffles
and the like.

Having said that sourdoughs develop gluten, I must warn you that if the
sponge or dough becomes too sour, the gluten will be degraded. This can
happen from letting the sponge or dough sit too long at a warm temperature.
It is important to try to catch each stage at its peak of yeast activity
when it is foaming and bubbling and go on to the next stage.

Rye and whole wheat flours sour more easily than white. So the above caveat
about oversouring applies mostly to rye and whole wheat breads. It is
actually quite difficult to develop a very sour tasting white bread. Mostly
you will make fine flavored white breads that few will instantly identify
as sourdough. I once made a whole wheat brad that was sour enough to give
me indigestion. Most of it was thrown out. If extra sour sourdough is what
you hanker for try Barb Beck's two starter method.

The dough tends to dry out quite easily and should be covered whenever you
are not actually working with it. I tend to use more plastic wrap than I
ever did before.

The dough is also drying to your skin. Daily baking or handling starters
(and the frequent handwashing) can cause dry peeling skin. I wasn't
prepared for this, since I usually don't use hand cream. I found a little
olive oil on my hands worked fine. I wouldn't want to get hand lotion into
the bread dough anyway.

There seem to be more gooey bowls and containers to clean. Use cold water
to rinse away most of the goo before washing with hot suds.

Use SD starter in quick breads, like biscuits, pancakes, scones. Sure,
they're no longer quick, but there are benefits. You will need less fat.
You will use less baking powder and or soda and notice a wonderful absence
of chemical odors and flavors. The yeast in SD makes wheat more useable by
our bodies, so it is more nutritious. There are some recipes further down
this page, but experiment on your own as well.

                 For More Information and Recipes

Since I don't believe in reinventing the wheel, I refer you to the many
excellent sources already available:

Darrell Greenwood has collected articles from the Sourdough Newsgroup that
will get you off to a good start.

Stephanie Kuzmack offers recipes and tips.

Joe Jaworski provides a recipe with photographs of each step in making San
Francisco sourdough bread.

Carl Griffith's grandmother brought sourdough starter with her on the 
Oregon Trail.  For many years, Carl sent out dried portions of this starter
to anyone who asked.  Carl passed away at the age of 80 early in 2000.  
Friends of Carl continue this tradition.  To get Carl's starter go to:

    http://home.att.net/~carlsfriends/


Sourdoughs International sells starters from all over the world and a book
"World Sourdoughs From Antiquity." The book tells the interesting stories
of how Ed Wood gathered these starters and how he participated in a
National Geographic project to duplicate the ancient bakery that fed the
builders of the pyramids. It gives good advice on maintaining and using
starters. The recipes include everything from hot dog buns to Christmas
stollen. I am a little disappointed in the rye and whole wheat recipes;
they are mostly white bread. I wouldn't make his bagels which contain milk
and eggs. I like that these recipes nearly always yield enough sponge to
make an instant treat of waffles while waiting for the bread.


                   - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 

                     *  Exported from  MasterCook  *

                             Light Rye Bread

Recipe By     : Rosemary Grimm <bf940@lafn.org>
Serving Size  : 1    Preparation Time :0:00
Categories    : Breads                           Sourdoughs
                Bread Bakers Mailing List

  Amount  Measure       Ingredient -- Preparation Method
--------  ------------  --------------------------------
                        Sponge:
   2      C             Starter
                        (Frothing, A Medium Batter Consistency)
   2      C             Water
   3      C             Bread Flour
     2/3  C             Rye Flakes
                        (Rolled Rye Kernels)
   2      Tbsp          Fennel Seed
   1      Tbsp          Caraway Seed
                        Dough:
   1      C             Strong Bigelow Orange & Spice Tea -- Or
                        (Other Rose Hip Tea), Cooled
   3      C             Unbleached Flour
   2      Tbsp          Brown Sugar
   3      Tbsp          Oil
   2      Tsp           Kosher Salt
                        Zest Of 1/2 Orange
   3      C             Rye Flakes -- Optional

 This is good all by itself or with split pea or other soups.

The rye flakes are optional. They add chewiness and rye flavor. If you use
them, toast them lightly first, either on a baking sheet in the oven or in
a cast iron skillet over medium heat. As long as you are toasting the rye
flakes, you might as well toast the seeds with them. Watch the flakes
closely; they burn easily.

Mix the sponge ingredients and let sit in a large bowl until very frothy
and doubled in bulk.

To the sponge, mix in the tea, then the bread flour, sugar, oil and salt.
Beat this vigorously by hand or in a mixer until elastic. Remember rye
flour has no gluten, so the white flour's gluten must be sufficiently
developed to carry the entire loaf. Then stir and knead in the rye flour.
Use just enough more white flour to keep from sticking to the kneading
surface. Let the rounded dough rest, covered, for ten minutes before the
final shaping. Divide into halves; shape and place in two oiled small loaf
pans. Let rise until the dough is risen above the top of the pans (if in
doubt, under-rising is better than over-rising.) Bake at 400 degrees for
about 50 minutes.

                   - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -