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London bakeries: critical commentary

"Diane Purkiss" <dianepurkiss@btinternet.com>
Mon, 11 Dec 2006 21:24:06 -0000
v106.n047.7
Steven, I'm not a traveller.  I've lived in the UK for almost 20 
years, and I shop in London once a fortnight.

People (in London) are always saying how marvellous London food is 
nowadays, which generally results in a kind of boosterism rather than 
a thorough assessment.  Actually bread in even top restaurants is 
often seriously substandard: Gordon Ramsay, for example, buys it in 
from bakeoff land. And it shows.  Of the top joints, only the Fat 
Duck had acceptable bread.  Note that I said acceptable.  Raymond 
Blanc's at the manoir was stale, last time I ate there.  I love Le 
Champignon Sauvage, but the bread was the weak point of the whole 
enterprise.  Compare and contrast with Veyrat, Bras, Savoy, Le Grand 
Vefour - hell, even Flora or Hélène Darroze.

Opinions differ healthily.  From your list, I think no baker would 
rival the best of Paris, Venice, SanFran or NYC.  Maybe the London 
Poilane, but that IS the best of Paris and not indigenous.  I thought 
De Gustibus's much touted bread dreadful (really dreadful), and Baker 
and Spice not much better.  I'm also not fond of Euphorium or Flour 
Power City (industries). Clarke's is too concerned with flavoured 
bread (rather like Poujauran).  For me, none of the bakeries you cite 
is a patch on St John, but Lighthouse is about the pick of them.  Oh, 
and Hobbs House in Tetbury (Gloucestershire) is perfectly ok but not 
in any way great.

Sorry, folks.  Still some distance to travel for a good loaf.