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Pain a l'Ancienne

Nifcon@aol.com
Sat, 1 Feb 2003 05:00:25 EST
v103.n007.4
Peter

I've had considerable success cold autolysing the flour and water at 80% 
hydration overnight, then adding 1% instant yeast and 2% salt and rising, 
shaping and baking as a normal, if sloppy, baguette dough.

The method given in Bread Baker's Apprentice just doesn't work FOR ME 
(others have had great success and every other bread that I've tried from 
the book has been superb).

The first post I made is reproduced below.

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On Tuesday I thought I'd try Reinhart's Pain a l'Ancienne again but I'd 
come to the conclusion that, in my kitchen and given the amount of heat my 
old Kenwood throws out, all my previous attempts had begun fermentation 
BEFORE the sugar release detailed by Reinhart could occur and that the 
stage where I was losing most volume was the transfer from bowl to bench 
after fermentation.

So - following on from a thread posted earlier, from whom, I'm ashamed to 
say, I don't remember - I mixed,  with a spoon, in my mixer's bowl, 500 
grams 13.2% bread flour and 400 grams ice cold water to a fairly smooth 
sticky dough and refrigerated immediately, leaving overnight.

Next day, I added 1 teaspoon instant yeast and 10 grams salt. In with the 
dough hook. The mixture balled around the hook on the first revolution and 
the mixing was not required to develop the gluten, just distribute the 
yeast. It was almost as if the unyeasted dough had been mixed heavily the 
night before.

Out onto the floured counter, shaped into a rectangle, a little flour over 
the top, covered with clingfilm and left to warm up and rise - about 4 
hours to double.

Divided into 6 baguettes, each placed, very gently,  on a 10X4 inch strip 
of parchment and left to recover for 1/2 hour after which time the logs 
were VERY bubbly and wobbly.

Oven preheated to 250C, 3 baguettes onto each stone, boiling water into the 
steam pan, baked for 15 minutes. Internal temp 94C, back into the oven 5 
mins, temp 96C. Finished.

The bread had the most glorious deep red-brown colour, thin crackly crust, 
the crumb was very light, very elastic, very porous with a whole range of 
sizes of irregular holes. Visually stunning.

The taste! Sweet, wheaty, multi layered with what wine buffs call a "long 
finish". The best tasting lean dough I have ever produced.

But is it Pain a l'Ancienne? I must admit I don't care, the result is just 
as Reinhart describes it and that's good enough for me.

John

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