Martin fritz wrote
<<For some time I have had a problem making bread with an open structure
like in Italian bread. I have not been able to get nice big holes.>>
Martin,
Many of the books out there will tell you that the answer to getting an
open crumb is to use more water. While this is required, it's only half
the story. To get an open crumb it is important to developed the dough
slowly and carefully at an early stage and let it ferment slowly. You will
need a dough that can hold gas even in a well-hydrated state (otherwise the
gas escapes and you get smaller cells). Using a good flour that will remain
extensible after a slow fermentation is also key. And most importantly, do
not shape your breads too aggressively after the first rise (you'll turn
the large cells into small ones). You must build dough strength before the
final shaping and then shape the loaves gently, striving for a slightly
taught outer crust and a relaxed interior in your final shape.
The best tool I've discovered for keeping a dough strong-yet-extensible
through a long fermentation is a technique called autolyse. To perform an
autolyse, one combines only the flour and the water from the final dough
and allows them to rest together for 30 to 60 minutes. This allows the
proteins to slowly hydrate and greatly increases their extensibility (you
can feel it happening). It also allows an enzyme called protease to work
on the proteins. Protease "softens" wheat proteins and allows them to
stretch more. Do not add salt, yeast, or any preferments (sponge, poolish,
levain) to the autolyse. If added at the beginning they will strengthen
the dough too much and negate the effect. Just the flour and water. After
30-60 minutes, add the remaining ingredients and finish kneading.
Try kneading the bread until it is smooth (it must be smooth and well
combined) but not overly developed. Let it rise once, punch it back, and
let it rise again before shaping This will finish the development of the
dough. Let the shaped loaf rise to
Secondly, longer, slower fermentation tends to build more sturdy doughs.
Use a preferment and/or a long, cool rise.
Shape the loaves gently. A well developed dough may look very limp before
it goes into the oven, but all of those cells inside the dough will inflate
when the heat gets to them. A strong and extensible dough will stretch
enough to hold the gasses.
Good luck and keep experimenting.
Greg Carpenter
Petoskey, MI