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RE: Proofing Boxes and Books

"Werner Gansz" <dwgansz@prodigy.net>
Sun, 3 Feb 2002 08:06:59 -0500
v102.n006.8
Re:  Proofing Boxes - When I turn on the light in my JennAir oven the 
temperature rises to 95 deg (with the door closed).  But when I stick the 
handle of a wooden spoon in the door the temperature goes to 78 deg and 
stays there.  I usually help the temperature to get started by turning the 
oven on for 15 seconds, then using the wooden spoon handle to hold the door 
ajar and keep the light on.  The only down side is that you have to pull 
the dough out during the final rise in order to preheat the oven for 
baking, but once started the loaves will keep on rising at room temperature.

Re: Peter Reinhart's "The Bread Baker's Apprentice" - Thank you to Reggie 
for recommending this book.  I read through most of it before trying any 
baking.  This is a good teaching book and is worth the read.  (Joe Ortiz's 
"The Village Baker" is still the best teaching book on bread baking that I 
have seen but "Apprentice" is a close second.)  The only bread I have had 
time to bake is his Pain a l'Ancienne.  When I read the story behind the 
recipe the hyperbole and extravagant claims for the taste of the bread 
seemed over-done, but when I baked it I could not deny that this procedure 
resulted in the best tasting baguettes I have ever made.  Considering that 
the ingredients are nothing special, just the usual white flour, water, 
yeast, and salt, the uniqueness of the  bread is in the procedure.  This is 
a cold dough bread.  The flour is mixed to a very wet consistency with ice 
water and the kneaded dough is left to rise overnight in the fridge.  The 
dough is then left out on the counter to warm and finish rising to the 
usual doubling the next morning.  The dough is very wet so shaping the 
loaves into baguettes is not really possible.  The dough is handled very 
much the way ciabatta dough is handled, by pulling and stretching into a 
rectangle, then cutting lengthwise to create long, thin and rather ugly 
looking dough strips.  (It could be argued that this is really a ciabatta 
dough shaped into baguettes but that's for the purists to debate.)  There 
is no final rise of the shaped loaves.  Surprisingly, the dough-strips jump 
to attention in the oven and form rather rustic looking baguettes.  (Hence 
the name "Ancienne"; I doubt that they had refrigerators in "ancienne" 
times.)  The crust was thick and very chewy. The crumb has an off-white 
color and is very moist and irregular.   The taste is superb.  I've tried 
direct methods, wet sponge methods and overnight bigas to make French and 
Italian white breads but this method is by far the best tasting (and 
easiest).  Unlike most baguettes, even in France I'm told, this bread for 
more than just soaking up soup.

Werner Gansz