Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2001 23:45:35 -0700 (PDT) -------------- BEGIN bread-bakers.v101.n035 -------------- 001 - "Chris Dalrymple" Subject: Yeast Date: Sun, 15 Jul 2001 11:11:34 -0500 From the King Arthur Flour website: Q: What is the difference between instant yeast, active dry yeast, and rapid rise yeast? A: Active dry yeast is what most people are used to seeing in supermarkets, commonly found in strips of three packets or in jars. Because of the way it is dried, active dry yeast contains a large percentage of dead yeast cells surrounding the live yeast cells. For that reason, active dry yeast must be hydrated -- immersed in warm water -- for at least a few minutes to release the live yeast cells from the dead ones. This process, referred to as "proofing the yeast," is essential for active dry yeast By contrast, instant yeast -- often called "instant dissolving yeast" -- is manufactured so that there are far fewer dead yeast cells. As a result, instant yeast becomes active the "instant" it contacts moisture. Rather than proofing it prior to use, simply mix instant yeast with all the other dry ingredients. Then, when liquid is added, the yeast will activate right away. Also, because there are fewer dead yeast cells in instant yeast, you need less instant yeast than active dry yeast to achieve the same effect. Some people like to proof their instant yeast anyway to assure themselves that the yeast is still fresh. Doing this causes no harm. Instant yeast and active dry yeast are created from different strains of yeast cells. Instant yeast does make the bread rise a bit faster than active dry. Instant yeast starts fast and works moderately. Active dry starts more slowly, works moderately fast, and eventually (after several hours) catches up to instant yeast. Both quit at about the same time. Unlike both active dry yeast and instant yeast, rapid rise yeast is a whole different strain of yeast altogether. If active dry and instant yeast were marathon runners, rapid rise yeast would be a sprinter. It gives bread a speedy initial rise, but dies out quickly. Avoid rapid rise yeast when you want to develop flavor in the bread through long rising times. > From: "linda grande" > Subject: Types of yeast > Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2001 15:59:23 -0000 > > I really could use further clarification of the many types of yeast. > Does anyone know what the 'real' guidlines for yeast are? --------------- MESSAGE bread-bakers.v101.n035.2 --------------- From: Sue Hermosillo Subject: Bread in the BBQ Date: Sun, 15 Jul 2001 09:07:53 -0700 With the summer heat I am avoiding turning on the oven at all costs and I don't have a bread machine (even when I did, I never baked in it because the shape of the bread wasn't functional). Has anyone tried baking bread in the bar-be-que? We do our pizza that way, starting out on a cast iron griddle then over the coals and add the toppings. It seems like bread might work if the heat was pretty low and the grill level was high. I'd love to hear from anyone with any experiences. Sue H --------------- MESSAGE bread-bakers.v101.n035.3 --------------- From: Paul and Ruth Provance Subject: Ruth's Daily Bread Date: Sun, 15 Jul 2001 20:05:30 -0400 http://www.upword.com/bread/daily.html I have posted this link before. It is the bread I usually bake for my family. I think you might be able to sneak it past your picky eaters, as I do mine. In fact, sometimes my six-year-old only has toast with peanut butter and jam, made with this bread. This is why I include as much added nutrition as possible. Take care! Ruth Keep baking bread! --------------- MESSAGE bread-bakers.v101.n035.4 --------------- From: "Pedro S. Arellano III" Subject: Susan Barrons Rebellious Bread Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2001 13:56:58 -0500 Susan asked how she could get her bread to stop over-rising in her bread machine. Here are a couple of tips taken from a ridiculous amount of reading. 1. Use active dry yeast. That instant stuff is icky. The active dry is slower. Definitely use active dry yeast in hand made, oven baked bread. The instant is like a sprinter, works really fast, really quickly and then poops. 2. Check your water temperature. it should be room temperature unless you live in Death Valley with no air conditioning, in which case that would be bad, very bad. Let's say 70 F or there abouts. a. use an instant thermometer, the kind with the dial are nice and cheap. In addition it can be used when you bake in the oven to test if the bread is done, 190 F. WARNING: don't leave it in the oven. My sister-in-law melted mine in the Thanksgiving turkey last year :( b. if you are too lazy, cheap or lack the anal retentiveness to use a thermometer then use your fingers. It should feel neither warm or cold to your skin. c. if you want to make absolutely sure your bread will not over-rise, cool the water to even cooler- let's say 60 F. If the cooler water doesn't work an exorcism may be in order :) 3. Skip the gluten all together unless the recipe has a lot of whole grains or sweeteners. The ` point of the gluten is to help out the grains that are low in--- duh duh ta duhhhh- you guessed it- gluten. Otherwise you will see gluten called for in recipes high in sugar, because too much sugar impairs the rising. I think this is God's way of telling us to stay away from high sugar recipes, but alas, I am a sinner in need of grace. 4. Go ahead and give the all purpose flour a shot. However, you should only use it in the plainer breads. If you try to use it in a sweet or whole grain bread it won't rise enough. HELLO! That is what you are looking for so go ahead and use the all purpose flour. a. although ap flour doesn't rise as much as bread flour I don't think the difference is monstrous b. ap flour results in a nice soft bread. c. ap flour doesn't absorb liquid as much. You might want to back off a hair on your liquid. Or is it the other way around I am sure I will get hung from the highest tree by the bread list clan if I am wrong on that. 5. Don't cut out the yeast on the sourdough recipes, chances are GREAT you will end up with bricks. 6. Cut back on the yeast as a last resort. I find most recipes to be correct if you follow all the precautions. 7. Read, read, read, and read some more. Here are two of my offerings. a. the Bread Machine Cookbook series by Donna Rathmell German b. The Bread Book by Besty Oppeneer. She has a website, I believe it is http://www.breadworks.com c. one word Library I could write more, but I think these are the major things to look for. That and most people are probably tired of reading this long message. Hope this information helps. Fellow Bread Fiend, Pedro --------------- MESSAGE bread-bakers.v101.n035.5 --------------- From: "Deb Strong-Napple" Subject: adobe bread oven Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2001 20:47:22 Susan: In your post to the Digest, you said that you had success building and using an adobe oven for bread baking. This is something I have been interested in for a long time! Where did you find directions to build the oven? What materials did you use? Was the oven wood fired? Is the book still available? Thanks for any answers! Deb in Virginia debdesigns@hotmail.com --------------- MESSAGE bread-bakers.v101.n035.6 --------------- From: Frank.Yuhasz@pentairpump.com Subject: for easier removal of loaf from bread machine pan Date: Wed, 18 Jul 2001 20:02:21 -0400 To avoid the problem of having major damage in the bottom of your machine-baked loaf, simply take out the dough at the beginning of the final rise, remove the kneading blade(s), and replace the dough into the machine. The finished loaf will then have only a small hole in the bottom, and will release from the pan without mishap. Set a timer, if needed, to remind you when to take out the dough. Happy baking, Carolyn --------------- MESSAGE bread-bakers.v101.n035.7 --------------- From: Frank.Yuhasz@pentairpump.com Subject: overproofed bread machine loaves Date: Wed, 18 Jul 2001 21:12:38 -0400 This is for Susan Barron, who is having extremely happy yeast merrily multiplying in her bread machine loaves. When the dough threatens to push against the inside of the lid, there can be several things that need tweaking, and your questions show that you are on the right track. Bread flour will typically give a better rise than all-purpose, due to the additional gluten, but I would not necessarily change to all-purpose flour in the bread machine. It depends on the type of bread that you are adding additional gluten to - - - whether or not to omit the gluten. (Gluten is generally added to breads with lots of whole grains, such as whole wheat, which have less gluten than white flours, and by having the bran included, tends to "cut" the gluten structure, which results in more dense loaves compared to loaves made with more processed flours.) You may need to reduce the yeast a little. Also the yeast may be a little more exuberant due to the warmth of summertime, if your house is not air-conditioned. (This can change according to the time of the year.) Reducing the water (or increasing the flour) to make a slightly less slack dough will also temper the size of the finished loaf. Be sure to keep within the measurement capacity of your machine. (Generally, 4 cups flour for a 2-pound loaf.) Do you look at the dough during its kneading cycle to ascertain if it looks "right" for the kind of bread it will become? Reducing the water at the onset is probably the best tack, for if the dough is still too wet, if you add too much more flour to compensate, you will still end up with too much volume of dough for the capacity of your machine, which would also cause the loaf to be too large, even if the finished dough is the right consistency. Within the confines of a bread machine, (unless you can adjust the cycle for a longer rise, if needed), you probably cannot eliminate the commercial yeast in a sourdough loaf. You could eliminate it for a hand-made bread, since you can extend the rising time as necessary if the starter is not rising the dough quickly enough on its own, and give it the time it needs to rise as much as needed. (We've had discussions on sourdough before, and for the most part, since it is the time that gives sourdough its character, true sourdough bread really is not suited for bread machines.) If worse comes to worse, and you see that the dough is going to squish up against the window, open the lid and deflate the dough a bit. It won't be a picture-perfect loaf, but it will help a bit for damage control in the cleanup department. For clean-up, the lids of most bread machines do come off, and it helps to lay a damp dishcloth on the lid, or around the handle (if it does not come off) to help loosen the dough debris. Hope these suggestions are helpful to you, for they come from the experience of 945 loaves of electric bread to date! Happy baking, Carolyn --------------- MESSAGE bread-bakers.v101.n035.8 --------------- From: "Joan Mathew" Subject: daily bread Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2001 07:13:25 -0500 Ordinarily I would post a specific recipe in response to such a request, but because the answer to this question is so broad I will just refer you to my recipe page: http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/8098/recipes.html I have quite a few bread recipes on my page, and many of them are ideal for the "daily bread" you're referring to -- I use them that way. Feel free to try them out and see if they meet your taste preferences. Hope you enjoy them, Joan --------------- MESSAGE bread-bakers.v101.n035.9 --------------- From: "Scullery Maid" Subject: Wheat Grinders Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2001 10:23:49 -0500 >Can you recommend a wheat grinder? I have a houseful of 11 people and would >like to start making our own bread. Also, what are best sources of wheat >berries? (quality and price) Thanks. Mrs. Beisner I assume you want an electric grinder, since it would take a lot of time (and effort) to grind wheat by hand for 11 people. I ordered my electric mill the day my son was born. He's 28 now, and they're both still going strong. Unfortunately, the manufacturer (Lee Engineering) went out of business a while ago. I've sort of been keeping track of what's on the market, just in case mine goes kaput. One source I found is: http://www.living-foods.com/marketplace/mills.html The King Arthur catalog and Walnut Acres catalog also usually have mills for sale, too. It seems that many people who recommend the Whisper Mill are, it just so happens, distributors of that mill. I personally prefer a grinding stone to metal burrs or plates. It's also important that the flour doesn't heat too much during grinding. I've tried many kinds of wheat over the years, but my all-time favorite is Arrowhead Mills hard, red winter wheat berries. It has a sweet smell and flavor that I haven't found in any other brand, and it's organic. I order 50-lb bags through a health-food store. The wheat isn't very expensive, but the postage can double the price if you have it shipped a long distance. Another nice wheat is from Wheat Montana: http://www.wheatmontana.com/index.asp I bought it once from Whole Foods Market when I ran out of Arrowhead. It was very tasty, and made the tallest loaves of bread I've ever made. As an aside -- although I use hard wheat which is supposed to be for bread, I find the flour also makes wonderful pancakes if care is taken not to stir too much and activate the gluten. I make all kinds of muffins and coffeecakes with half whole-wheat and half white all-purpose flour. All in all, I just have to say: DO get a mill. You'll be so glad that you did. You'll probably save money, and the flour will be so good, and so fresh, you won't believe it. Everyone you bake for will be happy! -Mary B. --------------- MESSAGE bread-bakers.v101.n035.10 --------------- From: Reggie Dwork Subject: fall bread baking classes Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2001 18:17:10 -0700 Here are some fall bread baking classes at Ramekins ... Thought some of you might be interested in attending if you are in the area. Ramekins 450 West Spain Street Sonoma, California 95476 Telephone: 707-933-0450 Fax: 707-933-0451 www.ramekinsclasses.com Bread-Baking 101 (Hands-on) with Carolyn Weil Hands-on Friday, October 12th, 11:00 AM Class Code: 101201AM Status: Scheduled $65.00 Notes: 3 1/2 hour class: 11:00 AM - 2:30 PM Carolyn Weil is an accomplished pastry chef and teacher. She started working in professional kitchens at the age of 14 and has worked her way through a variety of food experiences, including pastry chef for Jeremiah Tower's Santa Fe Bar & Grill and Stars. As owner (and head baker) of Berkeley's famous The Bakeshop, Carolyn received local and national attention for her fabulous baked goods. She is the editor of the pie chapter of the forthcoming "Baker's Dozen's" highly anticipated cookbook due out in Fall 2000. Bread is little more than flour, yeast and water. It is technique, knowledge of a bread's "lifecycle" and a good sense of touch that make a great loaf of bread. In this beginner's bread-baking class, Carolyn will teach you everything you need to know to start baking great loaves, rolls and bread-sticks in your own home. Students will leave with a batch ready to bake at home. White Sandwich Loaf - with Cinnamon-Raisin and Herb-Onion variations Oatmeal Bread - with a Brown Sugar Pecan Sticky bun variation Farmhouse Whole Wheat Bread - with Cheddar Onion Roll and Asiago breadstick variations ******* Intermediate Bread Baking Clinic (Hands-on) with Craig Ponsford Hands-on Friday, October 26th, 9:00 AM Class Code: 102601AM Status: Scheduled $95.00 Notes: *Intermediate level class.Limited to 16 students. Sonoma-based Artisan Bakers produces some of the Bay Area's most popular breads. An international award-winning baker and head of the U.S. Olympic Bread Baking Team, Craig's approach to bread making is simple: each loaf of bread is unique and special. His classes will help you make better bread at home, but more importantly, he will teach you why it's better. Every class Craig has taught at Ramekins has sold out, so we suggest you register very early! Special Class time: 9:00AM­2:00PM Join Sonoma's award-winning master bread baker for this unique opportunity to "take the next step" with your home bread baking. Whether you have taken a beginning bread class, are self-taught or bake bread professionally, you will benefit from Craig's baking and teaching experience by learning more advanced dough formulas, mixing and kneading techniques, plus bakery-style shapes and ingredient combinations. The first half of this class is lecture and question and answer format. The second half is hands-on with lots of focus on the chemistry and physics of bread-baking. Bring your own home-baked loaf for Craig to critique, plus your favorite (or most challenging) recipes to discuss. *Prior bread-baking education and hands-on experience is required for enrollment. ****** --------------- MESSAGE bread-bakers.v101.n035.11 --------------- From: "Werner Gansz" Subject: PISSALADIERE Date: Sun, 15 Jul 2001 11:39:03 -0400 Don, Almost any recipe seen on TV can be found on its related web site. Martha Stewart's are always on www.marthastewart.com The specific recipe for PISSALADIERE is listed for July 5th and is in the link below. I'm a big foccacia fan and this one sounds good.... Werner Gansz Werner --------------- MESSAGE bread-bakers.v101.n035.12 --------------- From: SloSherri@aol.com Subject: Dog Biscuits Date: Sun, 15 Jul 2001 09:31:40 EDT <> Are you selling these, Lisa? If not and you only need to preserve them for your own sake, I just freeze mine, and remove only as many as I know will keep for a week or so at a stretch. Your ascorbic acid idea is intriguing, but I don't have the answer (which certainly didn't stop me from posting, LOL). Do you have any cookbooks/reference books on preserving? One of them may have an answer for you. Sherri --------------- MESSAGE bread-bakers.v101.n035.13 --------------- From: SloSherri@aol.com Subject: Martha Stewart recipe Date: Sun, 15 Jul 2001 09:43:17 EDT Don, Sorry to be so late in responding, but I went to Martha's website and got the recipe for you. If you go to her website, www.marthastewart.com, you can locate recipes by searching or by day. I actually found the recipe you wanted for the 5th of July, and got you the link. It DOES look good! If the link doesn't click through, I've copied and pasted the recipe for you and anyone else interested below. Sherri [Note: paste the link together with no spaces] COOKING: PISSALADIERE This classic Provencal tart, which is similar to pizza and focaccia, has a bread crust topped with onions, anchovies, and black olives. Makes 1 thirteen-by-eighteen-inch tart For the dough: 3/4 cup warm water (105 F to 115 F) 1/2 teaspoon sugar 1 teaspoon active dry yeast 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for bowl and baking pan 1 teaspoon fine sea salt 1 3/4 cups bread flour, plus more for dusting For the salt wash: 1 tablespoon water 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil 2 teaspoons fine sea salt For the filling: 3 sprigs fresh thyme 3 sprigs fresh flat-leaf parsley 1 fresh bay leaf 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil 2 pounds onions, thinly sliced 4 medium cloves garlic, finely chopped 1 teaspoon fine sea salt 12 anchovy fillets, halved lengthwise 2 ounces nicoise olives, pitted and halved lengthwise 1. Make the dough: In a medium bowl, combine 1/4 cup water and the sugar. Stir to dissolve sugar. Add yeast, and set aside until foamy, about 5 minutes. Add remaining 1/2 cup water, the oil, salt, and flour. Stir until dough forms around spoon. Turn out onto a lightly floured surface, and knead until smooth, about 5 minutes. Lightly oil a medium bowl. Place dough in bowl, turning to coat with oil. Cover with plastic wrap, and set in a warm place until doubled in size, about 1 hour. 2. Preheat oven to 450 F with rack in center. Lightly oil a 13-by-18-inch rimmed baking sheet. Make the salt wash: In a small bowl, combine the water, oil, and salt; stir to dissolve salt. Roll dough into a 13-by-18-inch rectangle. Fit into pan, folding in excess to form a slightly raised edge. Prick all over with the tines of a fork. Brush salt wash evenly over dough. Set aside to rise for 30 minutes. 3. While the dough is rising in the pan, make the filling: Tie the thyme, parsley, and bay leaf together with a piece of kitchen twine to make a bouquet garni. In a large straight-sided skillet, heat oil over medium heat. Add onions, garlic, bouquet garni, and salt. Cover, and cook, stirring occasionally, for 5 minutes. Reduce heat to medium low, and continue to cook, covered and stirring occasionally until very soft and translucent, about 25 minutes more. Transfer to a sieve to drain any excess liquid. Remove and discard bouquet garni. 4. Spread onion filling evenly over risen dough. Place anchovies decoratively over top of tart. Bake for 12 minutes. Rotate pan, and bake until crust is cooked through and golden, about 12 minutes more. Remove from oven, and using a spatula, transfer tart to a wire rack. Arrange olives decoratively on tart. Serve warm or room temperature. --------------- MESSAGE bread-bakers.v101.n035.14 --------------- From: Epwerth15@aol.com Subject: Baking at high Altitudes Date: Sun, 15 Jul 2001 12:08:31 EDT For Emmy in Nevada: Our home is a little higher than yours...8000 feet...and I've found that I didn't have to make any adjustments for yeast doughs, but I'm still having problems adjusting cake batters. Evie Werthmann in Mammoth Lakes, CA --------------- MESSAGE bread-bakers.v101.n035.15 --------------- From: ehgf@mindspring.com Subject: Re: Summer Loaf Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2001 01:27:20 +0800 Hi All, Having attended and enjoyed Summer Loaf for the last two years, I was getting pretty antsy at not knowing any details other than the date and times (Aug 4 between 8 AM and 2 PM) of this year's event. Inquiries to the Portland Farmer's Market, which sponsors Summer Loaf, only resulted in a message left on an answering machine which has yet to be answered. I tried calling Gina Piccolino, the Activities/Membership Director of the Bread Baker's Guild of America and she was more than helpful. It seems that there are to be some changes this year with a "general scaling back" of bread type activities, but with the possible addition of some other artisan boothes/vendors. Here's the scoop as I understand it: -There will be NO classes (I am soooo disappointed as previous classes were taught by the likes of Peter Reinhart, Carol Field and Maggie Glezer. They are all gifted teachers and wonderful to meet in person). -There may or may not be a "Speakers Corner" which was always well attended. Speakers such as Amy Scherber and Craig Ponsford enthralled us with their perspectives on creating artisan breads, operating businesses and competing in International baking competitions. -There will still be wood fired oven demonstrations and an "Ask the Baker" corner. For those of you dreaming of building your own oven this is your chance to not only see one in action, but ask all kinds of questions about it. It's also an opportunity to ask professional bakers for help and/or tips. -Other artisan areas that have been invited this year include chocolate, cheese, butter, pasta, wine, meats and seafood. In the past, I saw mostly bread related items such as breads, jams, honey, butter, Brittany sea salt, premium olive oils etc. Since Bob's Red Mill is located in a Portland suburb, they usually have a large booth with their wonderful products. Of course, since the fair takes place at a Farmer's Market, there are always the most luscious looking fruits and vegetables, and amazingly beautiful flowers to buy. -The Bread Baker's Guild of America will still have a booth and are offering a "Gulidhall Gathering" so that members can meet and socialize. I strongly urge those of you who love the art and science of baking bread to join and support this organization. The BBGA is dedicated to educating, networking and perpetuating this time honored craft. I am not a profesional, but show my support by being a member in the "serious home baker" category although I actually prefer to call myself an "ambitious amateur" :-) To this desert dweller, the lovely cool summer weather (Portland, OR, not MA) and the lushness of the city are attractions in themselves for a summer get-away, I'm hoping some of you out there will attend along with me. Ellen aka Gormay --------------- MESSAGE bread-bakers.v101.n035.16 --------------- From: "BearMistress" Subject: Pissaladiere? Date: Sun, 15 Jul 2001 14:03:26 -0400 I think, not having seen Martha's show, that you're referring to Pissaladiere. I love it, but I haven't made it in a while, and cannot find my recipe ­ or maybe I did my usual and read a few then carried on from there! I did a quick Google search and the first one that came up seems the best, but you might do the same and see how you feel about it. http://www.sallys-place.com/food/columns/braker/pissaladiere.htm Of course, I, being vegetarian, would simply dispense with the anchovies! Hope this helps you in your search! virginia --------------- MESSAGE bread-bakers.v101.n035.17 --------------- From: "Gonzo White" Subject: lava Date: Sun, 15 Jul 2001 13:25:54 -0500 [[Editor's note: the post referred to here has been removed from the archives along with the poster's name.]] ***** recently made a post where he stated that the breadman Pro made bread with a thick crust and a lava like texture. This surprised me. I have had a Breadman Ultimate for about 5 years and have been very happy with it. And, I had a Breadman Pro on order. (5 years seems like a long time, and with the price at 89 dollars I figured why not). When the Breadman pro arrived I made a loaf and golly gee, he was right.. It did have a thick crust and it did look kinda rough. But that's the way I like it! He wrote it as though there was something wrong with the machine. I guess its just a matter of personal taste. If I wanted something that looked like wonder bread I would just buy wonder bread. I like a thick, crunchy crust. --------------- MESSAGE bread-bakers.v101.n035.18 --------------- From: "Carlton" Subject: Pita Bread Date: Sun, 15 Jul 2001 19:55:19 -0700 I sure need help. We love pita bread stuffed with salads, chili verde, or whatever but are having trouble making them consistantly acceptable. I cook them on a baking stone and they puff up very nicely, making a snug little pocket. However, sometimes the top above the pocket is very thin while the bottom crust is very thick. They should be of the same thickness and sometimes they are but usually not. Can anyone tell me what I am doing wrong? I e-mailed King Arthur for advice but have not heard from them. Thank you, Dick Carlton Brookings, OR --------------- END bread-bakers.v101.n035 --------------- -------------- BEGIN bread-bakers.v101.n036 -------------- 001 - Nifcon@aol.com - pissalagare 002 - removed by editor --------------- MESSAGE bread-bakers.v101.n036.1 --------------- From: Nifcon@aol.com Subject: pissalagare Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2001 18:12:03 EDT The "pizza" is pissaladiere (should be an acute accent on the first "e") - an old Provencal recipe according to Elizabeth David who mentions and gives a recipe for it in her "French Provincial Cooking" . The scanned recipe follows, any errors are mine not Ms David's. I have not tried this recipe but Ms David is usually reliable and authentic. PISSALADIERE - PROVENCAL ONION PIE The pissaladiere is a substantial dish of bread dough spread with onions, anchovies, black olives and sometimes tomatoes, baked in the oven on large heavy baking trays, and sold by the slice in bakers' shops or straight from the baking trays by street vendors. It is not so common nowadays as it was before the war, when it could be bought hot from the oven in the early morning at every street corner in the old quarters of Marseille and Toulon. Not so long ago, however, having spotted some in a bakery in Avignon, I went in and asked for `une tranche de Pissaladiere.' The shopkeeper did not know what I meant. `What, then, is that?' I asked. `Ca, Madame, c'est du Pizza Provencal,' was the surprising reply. Odd how that Neapolitan pizza has captured people's imaginations, even in Provence, where they have their own traditional version of it, the great difference being that the Provencal variety is made without the top dressing of chewy cheese characteristic of the Neapolitan pizza. In fact, the Provencal one more nearly resembles the traditional Roman pizza, and it is, I suppose, possible that it was introduced by Roman cooks during the reign of the Popes in Avignon. Truthfully it must be admitted that both the Italian pizza and the Provencal pissaladiere lie somewhat heavy upon the stomach, because of the bread dough which is the basis. The version made with pastry which is sometimes served in restaurants and private houses and may be bought ready made at patisseries is often an improvement. It is the filling which, if you happen to like the aromatic mixture of onions, olive oil, anchovies and olives, is important. The following recipe makes a splendid first course at luncheon, so long as it is followed by something not too substantial-a fine grilled fish, for instance, or a little best end of neck of lamb nicely roasted. PISSALADIERE A LA MENAGERE - PROVENCAL ONION PIE WITH YEAST PASTRY 5 oz plain flour 1 1/2 oz butter 1 egg 1/2 oz yeast salt a little water Cut the butter in little pieces and rub it into the flour. Add a good pinch of salt. Make a well in the centre; put in the egg and the yeast dissolved in about 2 tablespoons of barely tepid water. Mix and knead until the dough comes away clean from the sides of the bowl. Shape into a ball, make a deep cross-cut on the top, put on a floured plate, cover with a floured cloth and leave in a warm place to rise for 2 hours. For the filling: 1 1/4 lb onions 2 tomatoes dozen anchovy fillets dozen small, stoned black olives pepper salt olive oil Heat 3 or 4 tablespoons of olive oil in a heavy frying pan. Put in the thinly sliced onions and cook them very gently, with the cover on the pan, until they are quite soft and pale golden. They must not fry or turn brown. Add the skinned tomatoes and the seasonings (plus garlic if you like). Continue cooking until tomatoes and onions are amalgamated, and the water from the tomatoes evaporated. When the dough has risen, sprinkle it with flour and break it down again. Knead once more into a ball, which you place in the centre of an oiled, 8-inch tart tin. With your knuckles press it gently but quickly outwards until it is spread right over the tin and all round the sides. Put in the filling. Make a criss-cross pattern all over the top with the anchovies, then fill in with the olives. Leave to rise another 15 minutes. Then bake in the centre of a pre-heated oven, with the tin standing on a baking sheet, at 400 F, Gas No. 6, for 20 minutes, then turn down to 350 F, Gas No. 4, and cook another 20 minutes. John Wright --------------- MESSAGE bread-bakers.v101.n036.2 --------------- This message removed by editor. --------------- END bread-bakers.v101.n036 --------------- Copyright (c) 1996-2001 Regina Dwork and Jeffrey Dwork All Rights Reserved